Purple Prose

In my junior year of college I did two programs away from Denison, one in Salzburg, Austria, and the other doing a really great proto-graduate school program at the Newberry Library in Chicago. I worked on a thesis in Chicago about the Sacco and Vanzetti trial and I loved doing the work about these two Italian immigrant anarchists. Anyway, my thesis advisor, a sensitive, excellent academic named Louise Musser, would read drafts of my opus and say things like, “John, have you ever encountered the phrase ‘purple prose’? Your writing is a bit…um…more ‘purple’ than I would like to see.” Purple prose is a phrase, usually on the derogatory side, about how dramatic, or melodramatic writing can get. Louise suggested that academics want to avoid prose that is deemed purple and curb that impulse.

As I came to the end of my 75 page paper I told Louise that I had an exciting title for my work. I announced that the title would be, “The Crash of Symbols: the Sacco and Vanzetti Trial and the ‘Lost Generation.’” Gently Louise reminded me of the desire to leave behind one’s tendency to indulge in purple prose. Well, in my head I still loved the title. Get it? The pun on cymbal and symbol? Dear Louise, ever-sighing, thought it a bit too over-the-top. We settled on this title, “Re-Uniting the Lost Generation: How the Sacco and Vanzetti Trial Galvanized the Intellectual Community.” It’s okay, and since it had a colon in the title, you know it had to get an A in the college world.

I was reminded of that phrase ‘purple prose’ this weekend as I spent 48 glorious hours at the Queen of the Dead Sea resorts, the Kempinksy hotel. As I entered the room (with the coolest infra-red light kind of key system, so kicky and 21st century!) the television screen was lit up, welcoming me by printed name on the screen, and these words: “Surely there is no region on earth where nature and history have more wonderfully conspired, where so exciting a drama has obtained so beautiful a theatre. Amid scenes of exquisiteness and peace, the Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea gives you the opportunity to enjoy its riches - where Marc Anthony, Queen of Sheba, Aristotle and even Cleopatra once strived to unravel mystery.”

How Louise would have sighed over this copy writer’s propensity for the purply prose!!

After the safe but draining student trip to Boston, and the didacticism of Jerusalem, it was a welcome relaxing weekend to come to the Dead Sea and indulge in the luxuries of the Kempinsky.

A couple of months ago Lubna, our “Girl Friday” of the Faculty Center and dear friend, said, “John, I just found a great corporate rate at the Kempinsky. Let’s call Rehema and book it and go!” Within a half-hour the dates were chosen, the booking made, and the anticipation begun. Both Lubna and Rehema had been to the Kempinsky numerous times. Poor-white-trash Johnny had never been—one reason: they do not accept Day Guests. Wow. They must be special if they don’t need the $40 Day Guest fee and the riffraff that comes in as Day Guests (that would be me!). So Friday the 13th and the Ides of March are chosen—we will ward off all that bad luck and superstition in high style at the Kempinsky.

It is just under an hour’s drive down to the Dead Sea, but without a car, it still feels hard to get here. I suppose in the over 18 months in Jordan this is only the 5th time I have come here. I just think about it frequently!

The design of this complex is stunning. One of my students’ mothers is a friend of the architect, an Iraqi designer. He designed the complex to resemble the fabled Hanging Gardens of Babylon, one of the original ancient Seven Wonders of the World. Indeed from the towering and impressive Lobby complex, the series of villas and restaurants and pools create a terraced wonderland. From the moment you step inside, outstanding service is the rule. You are a greeted with a cool towel that is lemon-scented and heavenly. They welcome you to the Ishtar complex (Ishtar is an ancient Sumerian goddess, the goddess of carnal desire. That’s some suggestion for the Middle East to offer!).

They ask what extra services we may require (DVD player, laptop, reservations, Playstation) and what newspapers we may like, and they remind you that the snacks and drinks in the refrigerator/mini-bar are complimentary. They are singing my tune!! And they will be replenished tomorrow! And it’s my favorite tune…

The villas are designed so that you think you are the only guest in this large resort. The villas stand independent of each other, and are on these gorgeous walk-ways and your terrace/balcony/back porch all have a sense of privacy. You are surrounded by olive trees but have exceptional views to your semi-private pool. (Semi-private? I love how they caress that word for you so you know it is only for your series of villas, and you can enjoy it anytime you want.)

I never cease to be amazed at the incredible design and optical illusions of the infinity pool concept. I don’t remember if I saw infinity pools before coming to Jordan, but they are certainly the rage in the hotel complexes and the wealthy people’s homes. As I turn to my right, right now, I look out into our semi-private pool and the infinity illusion is that the pool drops off into the Dead Sea and it allows me to have that even greater sense of proximity to the Dead Sea, the lights of Jerusalem, and the hills of which David sang in the psalms.

I took a tour of the spa (“Sir, this is the largest spa in the Middle East, with the largest jacuzzi and the most expansive wet areas.”) and again, the design is simply striking. The whole resort is decorated with a soothing Minimalist touch. Now, if you have ever seen my living quarters at any time in my whole life, you know I have never attempted a Minimalist aesthetic. But when I would go to my dear friend Diana Kaplan’s house, I always relaxed and enjoyed how gorgeous a Minimalist approach can be. So here at the Kempinsky, instead of the over-stuffed look of Arabic mosaics and busy patterns, it is very sleek, with very silvery tones and angled hallways and stairways, and a command to sit and breathe!

I love the design of the teapots, and the elevator, and the shower stalls in the rooms (cylindrical cones with gorgeous stones) and the formidable granite slabs everywhere. The covers on the light fixtures act like theatrical gobo lights and throw patterns on the wall. And…by the way…we are emptying the mini-bar of snacks and drinks…

So what do we do? What does anyone do for a quick getaway from the gerbil wheel of regular life? You enjoy some nice meals, you lounge by the pool, you read a little, you try out the gym (by the way, free fruit there) and visit the Wet Area in the spa (the biggest in the Middle East, don’t forget!). I make a little routine in the Wet Area: I start in the pool that is a simulation of the Dead Sea (I find this a little amusing—the designers created a simulation of the minerals and salts of the actual Dead Sea, but in case you are lazy, you don’t have to trek down to the actual beachfront area outside, just go to the faux Dead Sea in the spa and float away!!); and then I go to the largest jacuzzi in the Middle East, where they have individual compartments to rumble away your composure with the rushing water; then I decompress in the Steam Room, have a freshwater shower, sit in the Sauna, and end the cycle with a relaxing turn on the thermal beach chair where you dry out and get heated from the stones. Rinse and repeat. Not a bad little cycle.

We meet up with one of our students and his parents who are also weekending at the Kempinsky. The father is often out-of-town since he is an official in the Iraqi government and has a security detail and all that stuff. We sit outside just past sunset and visit.

There is a pillow menu in the room so you choose just the right pillow for your sensibilities. I would hate for my sensibilities to be ruffled by the wrong pillow. There is a little room service on the balcony, a little reading, a little napping, a little stretching and a little sighing. Just what you want in a weekend.

I was looking in the big hotel guide for the pricelist of massages (way out of my range! I will wait a little longer!) and I come across some more writing about the hotel: “The sunset touching distant hills with ribbons of fire across the waters of the Dead Sea bring a sense of perfection to culminate your day here. As its name evokes, the Dead Sea is devoid of life due to an extremely high content of salts and minerals which gives its waters the renowned curative powers, therapeutic qualities, and its buoyancy, recognized since the days of Herod the Great, more than 2000 years ago.”

Ahh, Louise, a little purple prose now and then is a good touch.